Melanie Chatfield takes on her first self-guided walk, the Walpole to Denmark section of the Bibbulmun Track.
"Whoa that’s a big one. My eyes rolled skyward, and neck cramped to search for the top of the gargantuan tingle tree. The girthy monster loomed upwards of 70m. Hardwood sculpted through 400 years of exposed living and hot fires.
I stepped inside the blackened, cavernous belly. I’d love to linger here, shrug off my heavy backpack and relax in the quiet. I breathed in the earthy smell of wet wood and gazed at the ancient giants.
Alas, there was more to explore.
We’d barely made a dent in the 126km walk from Walpole to Denmark – one of the most diverse and picturesque sections of the Bibbulmun Track. Stretching 1003km from Kalamunda (25km east of Perth) to Albany in southern Western Australia, the full trail is mammoth. But shorter options abound for those with limited time.
As a newbie to self-guided, multi-day pack hiking I was anxious about carrying all my gear for a week. But the sore feet and physical effort of trudging over wind whipped sand dunes was worth it for the views alone.
Stepping out from Walpole, the first days were bathed in the beauty and stoicism of the remarkable karri forest. Shaded paths, lunch on fallen logs and the hypnotic crunch of leaves underfoot ensured a relaxing start.
As the trees receded, sunlight flooded in. An increasingly sandy track, flanked by coastal scrub and grassland, weaved towards the ocean. A riot of pink, yellow and purple wildflowers, delicate orchids, gnarly flowering banksias, and spiky grass trees commanded attention. Mobs of kangaroos peered shyly, and laconic tiger snakes blocked the path.
Soft sand hill climbs lead to the top of coastal headlands with exquisite views over rocky cliffs and postcard bays. The roar of pounding surf filled my ears. My head swivelled, drinking in the rugged isolation. A swim beckoned as we walked along paper white beach sand and climbed large boulders, worn smooth through the great Southern Ocean’s relentless massage.
Roughly 20km apart, hand crafted wooden huts offered free communal shelter, space to unfurl sleeping bags, and tables to share meals and swap stories. We pitched our tents in designated sites which offered some privacy and separation from any snoring beauties. Two of the best Bib Track camps feature in this section – Frankland River (nestled deep in the trees) and the delectable Rame Head (perched on a cliff with sweeping ocean views).
Chalet accommodation was available in Peaceful Bay (and sweet talking the host delivered cold beers on arrival) and after four days on the trail, a hot shower was welcome – albeit hair washed in bore water reminded me of my 1980s perm.
That said, it was better than the signature scent I picked up at the Irwin inlet. The short canoe crossing offers a fun reprieve from walking. Legs rest while your brain works to solve the high school maths problem of leaving equal canoes on either side.
As I sat to replace my boots after we’d crossed, my backpack toppled off the ledge, splattering into the guts of a bloated dead rat.
Odours aside, this week-long walk is both remarkable and achievable, even for newbies with a moderate level of fitness and camp-craft skills."
Need to know: bibbulmuntrack.org.au and exploreparks.dbca.wa.gov.au