Remnants of pioneer life are everywhere on the Brisbane Valley Heritage Trail.
Rail trails are often seen as the domain of the off-road cyclist, but there are a number that should not be overlooked as walking tracks. The Brisbane Valley Heritage Trail west of Brisbane offers a number of possibilities, including a 22km, one-day walk down the Blackbutt Ranges to the little village of Linville.
The walk starts in the township of Blackbutt just north of the Hart Street information kiosk. It follows the old railway easement through open paddocks behind the township before entering the trees and, after approximately 4.6km, you’ll reach the village of Benarkin where there’s a general store and a camping ground with water and toilets. From there you enter the Benarkin State Forest and start the gradual 300m descent to Linville, 18km away.
Keep in mind that this isn’t a wilderness walk but an old railway easement. There’s almost no canopy and, understandably, remnants of its earlier life are always evident. The cuttings and embankments are obvious reminders, but thanks to the work of the early surveyors, the grade is seldom evident and walking is easy. Railway artefacts are everywhere and notable points of interest are highlighted by markers and information boards, including an old school site and the site of a historic culvert.
Nevertheless, the bush still exerts its presence. We walked the track after late spring rains and everything was lush. The gums carried masses of their characteristic red new growth, there were many small ground animals and the bird songs were continuous right into the late morning, especially the unmistakable whip bird Small as they are we even managed to spot a few. A picnic shelter near the halfway point also caused us to stop. It’s at the site of the old railway builders’ camp and brings home the isolation of these railway families back in 1910.
Shortly after this midway point the track exits the forest into open grazing lands and you start getting the great views as you descend the range. It stays this way for the rest of the walk, providing excellent vantage points as it meanders along the open valley sides. We stopped for a short break at a mango-shaded shed but lost an hour as we watched hawks diving for prey across the small valley. Wallabies watched too, but from the opposite hill. The walk finishes at the old Linville railway station, which has been refurbished and makes a picturesque ending. However, it's the pub across the road that normally gets everyone's attention.
If you are feeling energetic the walk can be extended by continuing through to Moore on the highway, or it can be incorporated into a two-day 42km walk by starting at Yarraman and overnighting either at Blackbutt or Benarkin. But be warned: only one of them has a pub.
Need to know
Linville is a 1.5hr drive from Brisbane and 7km off the D’Aguilar Highway so a car shuttle is needed between there and Blackbutt. Best time to walk is autumn through winter to late spring.
Always carry water. It is available at Benarkin but there is no reliable supply after that.
Words and photos_Phil Waterhouse