Taking on Queensland's highest peak is hard work but the rewards are worthwhile.
Home to Queensland's two highest peaks, Wooroonooran NP receives the most rainfall in Australia. With creeks and falls flowing year round, this pocket of rainforest is always lush and green. Part of the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area, the park supports an environment rich in biological diversity. Here lie rainforests that are some of the oldest continually surviving in the world. From an active volcanic past this park has produced fertile soil, enabling the thick vegetation to flourish. Shaded and moist, the rainforest here is dominated by buttresses, ferns and vines.
Mt Bartle Frere – eastern ascent
At 1622m the tip of Mt Bartle Frere is often concealed by cloud. This doesn’t detract from its dominating shape towering over the farmland below. It does, however, pose a greater challenge to reach the top and be rewarded with breathtaking views.
Leaving from the eastern trailhead, the track doesn’t demand too much too soon. With a slight incline this is the best time to take it in. The track is well marked with orange-coloured arrows and is rather wide at this point.
With the metabolism firing after only an hour, pulling up a rock beside Majuba Creek is the perfect spot to stop and re-fuel. Immediately after Majuba Creek the fun really begins. This side of the mountain is the harder of the two and from here the incline is relentless. Passing the bright red and orange distance makers displayed at kilometre intervals it's easy to track your progress.
For our party it was enjoyable climbing the ladder-like root system along the track. In sections the forest giants have laid a level root system which consumes the unmaintained but well-worn path. One foot in front of the other; it is as if you are stepping up a ladder.
Climbing higher the mist closes in as we head into what is known as Cloud Forest. With a chill in the air we are thankful we packed warm clothes. The trail begins to change from here and boulders are more commonly strewn along the track. Finding our way out of the depths of the rainforest we near the 7km point. This is not the top. Bartle Frere had one more surprise.
Arriving at the heli-pad and steel hut, a sign indicates that the summit lies another 500m on. Standing in our way was a massive boulder field. Navigating around these huge black boulders fixed to the mountain with big gaping holes below was nerve-racking. This was a test of mental toughness and endurance, especially for those who aren’t excited about boulder hopping.
This is the point that often turns people around. Not for the faint-hearted, this field of granite can be an anxious expedition for even the most enthusiastic hiker. As the cloud cleared, however, excitement consumed us as the surrounding mountains and farmland were revealed.
With the cloud rolling in again, making those final steps to the summit was important. This felt like the longest 500m, but with a second wind and a few track washouts we made it.
Mt Bartle Frere – western descent
After a well-earned rest it was time to descend the western flank. Initially we find ourselves weaving amongst the confined space between trees and boulders. At this point it's worthwhile keeping an eye on the trail markers. As the warnings note, people have become lost on this track.
Rewarding us with the most notable of views, we arrive at a granite outcrop known as Boulder Lookout. An hour or so from the summit this vantage point offers greater views of the surrounding tableland and mountain ranges. Perched high above we have views expanding to North Peak. If views are what you seek, stopping here is more than satisfying. From the Western trailhead it's a 3-5hr journey to this point.
The rainforest is denser now and as we tracked down the mountain we moved deeper into the wilderness. With fewer people tackling this side there is more chance you will not meet a soul.
Prominent along the descending track, ferns and palms line the trail. As the sunlight penetrates the canopy the rainforest floor is illuminated with fluorescent green. Combined with the tranquil sounds and a narrow track, this side is less disturbed.
Heading down, the trail does well to maintain our interest as we pass sections where huge boulders have formed caves and shelters. Further down, Bobbin Bobbin Falls is a peaceful location to relax before crossing the finishing line at the western trailhead.
Broken Nose
A shorter and easier alternative than the summit of Bartle Frere, Broken Nose (10km/6-8hr/ difficult) provides spectacular views. Looking out to the ocean and beyond the vantage point from here is usually cloud-free, unlike the summit. If you don’t think your legs will carry you to the peak this a great alternative.
Leaving from the Josephine Falls carpark, the first 3km or so follow the same path as the Mt Bartle Frere summit track. Strolling along you will see the devastation caused by Cyclone Yasi in February 2011. With much of the debris moved aside it is hard to imagine the force that pushed the tall timber to the ground.
In comparison to the remaining part of the track the first few kilometres are easy going. As with the track to the summit, the hard work begins after the junction. From here, the trail veers left towards the huge tree in the near distance.
The next 90 minutes or so sees us climb an almost vertical incline. Looking up, it is a surprise we don’t fall backwards. The incline feels never-ending and at some points you might even stop and ask yourself how much steeper it can get. Thankfully the track heads almost directly to the top rather than winding aimlessly.
With a distinct left-hand turn the trail undulates before you find yourself atop Broken Nose. At 962m the two lookouts provide comfortable viewing over the Russell River, Atherton Tableland and Coral Sea. Surprisingly vast, this vantage point is somewhat better than at the summit of Mt. Bartle Frere.
Sitting quietly on smooth boulders, the clouds sweep towards the height of the range above. This is definitely one place that calms even the busiest of minds as you overlook the most attractive of landscapes. As the road less travelled it is likely this spot will be solitary as most people head to the summit. A less demanding hike, this is a great option for those with limited time or reduced patience.
Words and photos_Samantha Alexander