In part one of our two-part story we look at WA's latest multi-day walk, the Wiilman Bilya Trail, just outside of Collie.
From coal hub to adventure hub, the town of Collie is reinventing itself. The Wellington Dam area is designated as National Park. Along with ten million dollars of state funding, Collie and state government departments are developing a huge network of trails to attract hikers and mountain bikers.
We are excited to experience the newest multiday hike in Western Australia: Wiilman Bilya Trail. We had seen the relatively new Wellington Spur of the Bibbulmun Track on our most recent end to end, and now that spur joins in with the loop trail.
Collie to Kooboolong Camp
Our hike begins in Collie. Having spent the night at the hiker friendly Colliefields Hotel. With packs and walking poles, we stride along the footpath to the trailhead alongside the sleepy Collie River.
We spot the double boot-print trail sign that will mark our walk for the next four days. The first few kms is gentle going following the green banks of the tree lined Collie River. We encounter plenty of friendly locals walking their dogs and a couple waving ladies on horseback across the opposite bank.
It is a very good start on what will become the showcase of hiking trails around Collie. The dedicated walking trail is named after the Wiilman local indigenous people. Bilya, is the Noongar word for river.
At 87km in length, the brand-new loop trail starts and finishes in Collie. For the average hiker, it should take five days and four nights to complete.
From the outset, we were aware that in November 2022, we would not be able to do the whole Wiilman Bilya circuit.
Although complete, less a few smallish alterations, the crossing along the top of the massive Wellington Dam wall requires more work to make it safe for walkers. That should happen around June 2023, and we can’t wait.
Before long the trail looks more like a bush track, and we are far enough out of Collie to drop casual dog walkers and bike riders. The jarrah forest is partly regrowth mixed with surprisingly tall stands of old growth. Our eyes are on the lookout for anything that moves, including snakes.
We are also on the lookout for ground orchids and other wildflowers. Although we see plenty of flowering plants, being it is late November, most springtime orchids are long gone.
We find the trail reasonably steep going in parts with gravel and uneven surfaces requiring plenty of concentration. I guess that is why the trail has quite a high Grade 4 rating. We reach a high point, Djinang Koorliny Lookout. It is here that I experience that déjà vu moment from my early hiking days.
A river run through it
The trail descends steeply to a point where we cross the Collie River. Instead of wading and swimming across as I might have done 38 years ago, we walk high and dry along the beautifully constructed Kaniyang Wiilman Bridge.
From the middle of the 94m-long pedestrian bridge, we admire the Collie River flowing down the forested valley. As there is a close by parking spot, you could arrange a pickup to shorten the hike.
There’s a big smile of relief as we reach Kooboolong Camp where we set up our tent, ending a hilly 18km hike. We are immediately struck by its spectacular location. Situated on the arm of the massive Wellington Dam reservoir, we absorb the stark beauty of drowned tree skeletons reflecting perfectly in placid waters.
It’s not only the view that impresses us. The solidly built and expansive shelter has a back wall that offers protection from prevailing weather. There is a picnic table with bench seats and even more seating along the back wall. Most importantly for multi-day hikers, the new long-drop toilets are clean.
We fill our water bladders from big water tanks after being sterilised as recommended. There are another three new huts on the track with the same facilities and well thought our locations.
As we had the place to ourselves, we could have set up camp under the shelter, but chose one of several cleared tent sites instead. The soothing sound of lapping water lulled us into a deep sleep.
Read part two of the story here and for more info on the new Wiilman Bilya Trail click here.
Words and photos_Jane and Michael Pelusey