In part 2 of our two-part story (read part one here), Great Walks experiences the beauty of a self-guided Camino walk in Portugal.
Pilgrimages to the Peneda Sanctuary began centuries ago after ‘Our Lady of Peneda’ appeared to a local shepherdess. A small chapel was built in homage to the apparition and today the sanctuary includes an imposing church, the massive ‘Virtue Stairway’, statues representing Faith, Charity, Hope and Glory, and no less than 20 tiny chapels depicting Christ’s life!
The ancient village of Lindoso is the next day’s destination - a relatively easy 19km walk with few significant climbs. We pass through oak forests and several small villages to be met by our host at the village pillory, a tall stone post found in many villages, where wrong-doers were shackled and pelted with stones and rotten fruit. Our host takes us to our accommodation – a cosy cottage set amidst numerous espigueiros (stone grain stores) clustered beneath the medieval Lindoso Castle, built in the 13th century and now a National Monument.
The Serra Amarela circular trail out of Lindoso is our longest day so far – 22km with plenty of ups and downs that take us through magical patches of woodland with watermills and more of the endangered Garrano ponies.
Our final day’s walk begins in Avelar, a shepherd’s village in the Soajo Mountains. It’s raining so we don the wet weather gear and hit the trail. We’ve been warned the trail markers are not well maintained and sure enough, as we head uphill through thick, prickly gorse we lose the track and spend ages wandering around the hillside until ‘Linda’ rescues us. Despite the track notes recommending the wearing of long pants, I’ve worn shorts, so by the time we relocate the track my legs are a bloody mess.
The rest of the 19km walk is uneventful as we tramp through this wilderness area, passing primitive stone shelters used by shepherds, and on a remote hillside we come across a huge circular stone wolf trap where the locals tethered a goat to lure marauding wolves into a pit.
The walk continues through enchanting woodlands and a delightful section of river, through more forest and pretty countryside on ancient stone roads between quaint villages until we reach Soajo from where we are transported to Ponte de Lima.
Portuguese Central Way of St James
Over the next five days we follow in the footsteps of thousands of pilgrims on the Portuguese Way of Saint James - from Ponte de Lima, north to Valenca on the Portuguese-Spanish border, before we swing south and follow the Atlantic coastline to Viana do Castelo.
Our day begins with a 5km long climb up Labruja mountain as we follow the Camino’s yellow arrows painted onto rocks, walls, lamp posts and signposts. At the top of the mountain we stop for a rest at the ‘Cross of the Dead’, marking the spot where locals ambushed and killed stragglers from Napoleon’s army in the 1809 invasion.
Unlike walking in the Peneda-Geres NP where we encountered an occasional local and the odd cow or two, we encounter more people on the track who, unlike us, are walking to Santiago de Compostela. The rest of the 22km walk is a pleasant doddle as we head down the mountain to Cossourado.
Next day it's only a 12.5km walk in steady rain to the medieval fortified town of Valenca where we stay overnight at Pousada de Valenca. Perched above the Minho River we have extensive views from the dining room across the river’s wide waters into Spain where another fortress squats on a hill.
The rain continues over the next two days as we walk beside the river. There are no mountains or hills and no cobblestones, rock-strew paths, or mud to negotiate – we’re walking on the Ecovia - a sealed walking/cycling path. We meet ‘pilgrims’ heading north who tell us we are walking in the wrong direction. We feign surprise and mutter something about taking a wrong turn!
In Vila Nova de Cerveira we stay overnight in a lovely old quinta where we are the only guests and are fussed over by Anna and Monica.
On our way to Vila Praia de Ancora next day the heavy rain beats us, so we skip the final 8kms and catch a train - a wise decision, as no sooner have we boarded than the heavens open up and torrential rain falls.
Our final day is a 20km walk along the coast with some short detours inland through woods, small villages and fields. The scenery varies between rocky and sandy shores, imposing stone windmills and ancient fortresses, punctuated with long stretches of raised boardwalks over the dunes until we arrive in the beautiful historic centre of Viana do Castelo.
After 253km and 16 days of walking, our exploration of Portugal has revealed a country of unique charm and delightful character, of quaint medieval villages, outstanding natural scenery, and quite nice wine! While we congratulate ourselves on our achievement and toast Portugal Green Walks for providing us with such a memorable experience, we’re already planning our return.
Need to Know
Jose and his team at Portugal Green Walks (portugalgreenwalks.com) organise all accommodation, luggage transfers and itineraries.
Words and photos_Ian Trevaskis