In part two of our two-part story of the new Grand Cliff Top Walk (read part one here) Great Walks ventures deeper into the Blue Mouintains.
Light rain surrounded us as we took in the first (of many!) must-see short side trips to Fletchers Lookout. One of my favourites, this spot allows you to look down over the impressive 187m drop of Wentworth Falls.
The roar through the mist below us felt like the revving of our walking engines and marked the first of four key waterfalls that dissect the route: Wentworth Falls, Gordon Falls (50m), Bridal Veil Falls (55m) and Katoomba Falls (230m).
Off we go and the cockatoo shows us the way along robust sandstone stairs, natural earthen track and stepping stones as we peer through the curtains of cloud that swirl around us. By addressing the degraded and badly eroded sections of the old track, the project has homogenised difficult sections of the terrain, so it now sits comfortably within grade 3.
Taking our time to plunge deeper into the dripping rainforest side-trip to Den Fenella Falls, we arrive at the Conservation Hut Cafe for morning tea. Buoyed by coffee #2 and a cheeky cake, I started to think I could get used to this style of walking!
Crossing the top of Empress Falls, to the ‘woohoo!’ of canyoners below, the track shimmies through dry sclerophyll and allo-casuarinas (listen out for those hungry black cockatoos!) behind the Fairmont Resort and Leura Golf Course. From here, our friend the cockatoo flew us along the 1.3 km section of road, past impressive local homes to land us back in the National Park and heading for lunch.
With clouds closing in on us, we finally succumb to raincoats. The sandstone faces of small cliffs tried to persuade us to shelter for a dry lunch, but my trusty friend humoured me to press on for lunch at one of Leura’s favourite delights – Pool of Siloam.
Day trippers appeared, signalling that we were nearing the end of Day 1. Sure enough, it was only 400 metres later that we emerged at Gordon Falls Reserve and began the gentle uphill walk to our bed ‘n’ breakfast at the top of Leura Mall. Oh yes, dear friends… THIS is inn-to-inn walking: hot shower, delicious restaurant meal and death by comfort – mountain guesthouse style with a washing machine and spa bath to boot!
Day 2: Leura to Katoomba – 8km
Day 2 bursts into sunshine and the first of two breakfasts. This is shaping up to be a culinarily indulgent walk. Maybe I’m a Hobbit.
Back through the leafy streets to Gordon Falls and the rich, moody moments of yesterday’s skies have disappeared like the chocolate left on my pillow. Throwing back the cloudy curtains to reveal the unmistakable grandeur of the Jamison Valley it’s hard to keep our eyes on the track, with Mount Solitary, Kings Tableland and Narrowneck wooing us to our left as we continue to head west.
Tarpeian Rock (named after the 25m high rock in ancient Rome where the most unsavoury of types were flung to their deaths) is our first side trip for today; its rippled rocks betray the ancient underwater story that continues to carve the sandstone of the Blue Mountains to this day. Dragging ourselves away, I delight in sharing Bridal Veil View Lookout (not to be confused with Bridal Veil Lookout) with my friend: ‘It kinda gives you a drone’s perspective of Bridal Veil Falls’. Powered by yesterday’s rain, the aspect is more than worth the short steep metal stairs and the 200m (one-way) offshoot. I’m sure our cockatoo friend won’t mind.
Graciously, the track drew us onwards and alongside the famous Leura Cascades, singing to us as we rounded the top of the falls, and onto our tasty packed lunch in the dress circle at Bridal Veil Lookout.
It’s along the next 5km to the track end at Scenic World that anyone familiar with the Prince Henry Cliff Walk will feel right at home. Meandering in and out of spurs and gullies, yet staying comfortably at around the same elevation, the Grand Cliff Top Walk moves along through areas popular with lyrebirds and bower birds. Late afternoons (or early mornings) are a treat for the full chorus as you duck in and out of myriad small lookouts and viewpoints.
Pay attention and don’t miss the grand dames of the Three Sisters by taking the sidetrack to the popular Lady Game Lookout, Honeymoon Bridge or the quieter (and my pick), Spooners Lookout.
We’re on the home stretch now, with around 2km to go, but there’s still one key waterfall to take in and it’s the biggest of them all: Katoomba Falls! Best viewed from Katoomba Falls Lookout (100m side trip to Reids Plateau) and time to pause and reflect on the last two days and nearly 20km of track. From here, it is an easy ramble into the Scenic World forecourt and bus stop (important: check the timetable) for the short ride to Katoomba Station … or another night locally to celebrate.
Caro chose to stay at Varena Guest House (Leura) and No. 14 Lovel Street (Katoomba) and wishes to thank the Blue Mountains community who supported her trip.
Click here for more info on this new walk.
Words and photos_Caro Ryan