Great Walks explores the ancient rainforest of Springbrook NP.
Standing on the edge of a precipice along the Queensland/NSW border, we contemplated our position. About 25km inland from Australia’s east coast, at an altitude of 700m, we stood on the exposed summit of Mt Cougal. One step away was NSW and certain death.
We were following the border blazed by intrepid surveyors Francis Roberts and Isaiah Roland in the 1860s, towards the prominent twin peaks called the Cougals. A modest and easily missed sign attached to the fence indicated the start of the walk. After an abrupt uphill climb, a cacophony of cicadas greeted us with a great view of the Tweed Valley and Mount Warning in the background. Our first glimpse of Mt Cougal, the imposing twin peaks covered generously by a massive swathe of rainforest, was tantalising yet terrifying.
A tale of two summits
The Cougals (10.5km return/6hr) have commanded a sense of awe for years. A report in The Courier Mail in 1928 celebrated what was believed to be the first European ascent of Mt Cougal despite the foreboding “unbroken line of cliffs encircling the summit”. These very cliffs loomed before us now. We entered the rainforest canopy and surrendered to a whole new world.
We were surrounded by massive trees such as red cedars, bloodwoods and rosewoods. Elkhorns and staghorns clung tenaciously to these hulking trees while the notorious lawyer vines left their mark on our skin. This region has a reputation for being the wettest place in southern Queensland, so the high rainfall average of 2100mm was no surprise. It made even more sense considering the name Cougal is derived from the Yugambeh word koggal, meaning "the place where water falls down".
The environment constantly changed the further we penetrated the forest. The terrain, vegetation, even sounds were subject to sudden and unpredictable changes. The incessant drone of the cicadas was replaced by the sound of silence, punctuated only by sporadic bursts of activity deep in the undergrowth. As we walked deeper into the forest, the terrain became more tangled and the incline steeper. We criss-crossed the fence which had fallen in sections, crossing state and time zones momentarily.
Abruptly, the ascent became fierce and unforgiving. While massive gnarled tree roots assisted with the climb as handholds, the fertile soils (a legacy of volcanic history) ensured much slippery mud which hindered our progress. To add to the challenge we faced natural hurdles in the form of large fallen trees and debris. This was evidence of a previous landslide due to massive downpours. As we reached the base of the East Peak cliff, we left the border fence for the first time.
The wild west
Skirting around the base of East Peak we prepared for the final assault. This involved negotiating a precarious and exposed rock ledge, regarded as the biggest psychological test on East Peak. On the way to the summit we passed many giant spear lilies with their distinctive red flowers, as we enjoyed 360 degree views of the Tweed Valley and Springbrook Plateau with lunch. It was here that the first (of many) tick discoveries was made.
Descending to the saddle between the two peaks involved thick and seemingly impenetrable vegetation. Giant orchids, massive ferns and robust Bangalow palms hindered our progress and obscured steep drops that suddenly appeared like a magician’s reveal. The saddle was quite literally like being on a knife’s edge. A wrong turn or an over-zealous step could send us plummeting into NSW.
The ascent of West Peak involved more thick vegetation with escarpments flanking us vindictively on either side. Strength, agility, persistence and a perverse comfort in accepting heights were needed to reach the summit. The actual summit of West Peak is difficult to discern, the area being far more substantial than the knoll on East Peak. Unfortunately the views were not as impressive due to large trees preventing any decent vantage point.
As we made our return, it was an opportunity to develop a deeper respect for the pioneering surveyors of 150 years ago. We had encountered a multitude of challenges and experienced new forms of pain along the Qld-NSW border.
Waterfalls galore
The Warrie Circuit (18km/6hr) is a dynamic, interactive walk and the longest, most scenic in Springbrook NP. The meandering track passes through (and behind!) a stunning array of eight waterfalls. Another appeal of this walk is it is more family friendly than the strenuous Cougals. At the start of the walk, a sweeping view from Canyon Lookout rewards you with Gold Coast highrises dotting the horizon. The awesome southern cliffs provide a lesson in geology, the result of millions of years of erosion.
Only 15 minutes from the start, Twin Falls reminds walkers why the Warrie Circuit is so-named, “Warrie” meaning “rushing” in the indigenous language. A sudden descent down a concrete track leads to a sub-tropical world. The change in vegetation is as sudden as it is spectacular; descending from the ridgeline filled with montane heath and massive cliff edges to the forest floor with a totally different ecosystem.
The track passes through a cleft in a giant moss-covered rock before leading to our favourite waterfall, Rainbow Falls. The sight of water cascading off the 60m drop is only upstaged by the rainbow suspended magically in the tumbling falls.
The Goomoolahra Falls are actually a sequence of different falls, dropping a total distance of 280m. It is here that the thundering power of the water can really be appreciated. All creeks in the canyon converge to one drainage point, Meeting of the Waters. This is a perfect place for lunch and the half-way point on the walk.
There are a number of waterfalls on the ascent as the path zigzags towards the original escarpment. The most impressive is Blackfellow Falls, where the track passes behind the waterfall and where it is impossible not to get wet!
Postcard perfect
The Purling Brook Falls (circuit walk, 6km/2hr) are the highest in the region and the 106m drop is quite a sight. They are more spectacular after heavy rainfall and the sheer volume of water plummeting is awe-inspiring.
Starting from the Gwongorella picnic area, walkers are presented with a commanding view of Purling Brook Falls before the descent. Climbing down the 450 steps is relatively easy but can be deceptive due to the unevenness of the steps.
A side trip to Warringa Pool is well worth the extra 2km return. It is a beautifully secluded and tranquil spot with crystal-clear water and soporific sounds of water flowing serenely into the pool.
The final part of the walk involves a zigzagging ascent to the ridgeline where the rainforest is replaced by dry open eucalypt forest. There is another vantage point to view the waterfall before returning to the picnic area.
